Not sure of your shape? Start with what is my breast shape? If you came out average on a feature, skip that table.
By projection
| You are | Try first | Less likely to fit |
|---|---|---|
| Projected | Unlined seamed balconettes and plunges; side-support styles; spacer cups | Moulded T-shirt bras; half-cups |
| Shallow | T-shirt bras; half-cups and demis; balconettes with a horizontal seam; push-up | Deep multi-part cups; narrow plunges |
By fullness
| You are | Try first | Less likely to fit |
|---|---|---|
| Full on top | Cups with a stretch-lace upper; open-topped balconettes; full cups with stretch top | Firm-edged moulded cups; low half-cups |
| Full on bottom | Balconettes; half-cups; plunges; anything with a low upper cup | Tall full-coverage cups |
More: full on top vs full on bottom
By root
| Your root is | Try first | Less likely to fit |
|---|---|---|
| Narrow | Plunges; brands cut for projected shapes | Wide-wired balconettes and T-shirt bras |
| Wide | Balconettes; half-cups; side-support styles; many moulded bras | Narrow plunges |
| Short | Demi, half-cup and plunge styles with low sides | High-sided full cups |
| Tall | Full cups; higher-sided balconettes | Very low-cut styles |
More: what is a breast root?
By spacing
| You are | Try first | Less likely to fit |
|---|---|---|
| Close set | Plunges; low-centre styles; non-wired bras | Tall or wide centre panels; front fastening |
| Wide set | Balconettes and full cups with a wider centre; side support; front fastening | Very narrow plunge centres |
Some common combinations
| Combination | A good first try |
|---|---|
| Projected, narrow root, close set | Unlined seamed plunge |
| Projected, full on bottom | Unlined seamed balconette |
| Shallow, wide root, full on bottom | Half-cup or moulded balconette |
| Shallow, full on top | Balconette with a stretch-lace upper |
| Wide set, pointing outward | Side-support balconette |
| Soft tissue, less upper fullness than before | Balconette or plunge with a stretch upper |
Then let the fit decide
Use these to choose what to take into the fitting room. Once a bra is on, the only test that counts is how it sits: wires on ribcage all the way round, centre flat, cup edge smooth, band level. Go through how a bra should fit, and when a style works, note its name. The same cut from the same brand is likely to work again. Each style named here is described in bra styles explained.
Frequently asked questions
Which bra style suits most people?
An unlined or lightly lined balconette is the most adaptable cut. It has moderate coverage, an open neckline and a medium-height centre, so it works for a wide range of shapes.
What if two of my features point to different styles?
Give priority to the one that causes you the most trouble in bras. Spacing and root are about where wires sit, so they tend to decide comfort. Fullness and projection decide whether the cup lies smooth.
Do I have to avoid styles that do not suit my shape?
No. These are odds, not rules. A style that is unlikely to fit may still work in a particular brand, and stretch fabrics widen what you can wear.
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