Bra Fitting for Large Busts

What is different at larger cup sizes

• The band carries more. A slightly loose band that goes unnoticed with a B cup puts a heavy load on the straps with a G.
• One cup size is a smaller proportion of the whole, so being one or two cups out is easy to overlook, and you may need to try the size either side.
• Shape decides more. The more volume there is, the more it matters whether a cup is deep or shallow, narrow or wide.
• Fewer shops stock the sizes.

What general fittings often get wrong

These are patterns reported again and again by people who are later fitted elsewhere.

• Band too big, cup too small. A 38DD offered where a 34G fits. The band rides up and the cups cut in. Research at the University of Portsmouth found that the traditional method's errors grew with band size.
• Fitted into the top of the shop's range. If a retailer stops at a G, people who need a GG or H are placed in a G on a bigger band.
• Moulded bras by default. T-shirt bras are popular and easy to sell, and are the construction least likely to suit a fuller, projected bust.

If any of that is familiar, your measured size is the place to start again: use the calculator, and expect a smaller band and a higher letter.

Signs of a good fit at this size

• The band is firm and level on the loosest hook, and stays put when you raise your arms.
• With the straps slipped off, the bra and your breasts stay roughly where they were.
• The centre panel is flat on your breastbone.
• The wires sit on ribcage right round to the side, behind all the breast tissue.
• Nothing bulges at the top, the centre or under the arm after a scoop and swoop.
• The straps leave no grooves by the end of the day.

Construction to look for

• Seamed cups in three or four panels, in firm fabric
• Side support panels or slings
• A deep band with three or four hooks and firm wings
• Wider straps, set close enough not to slip
• Strong wires in cushioned channels
• A leotard or U-shaped back for stability

Where to be fitted

• Bravissimo specialises in D cups and above, with sizes to an L cup, and fits by eye. See our Bravissimo guide.
• Independent lingerie boutiques. Many are full-bust specialists with very experienced fitters. Ask what size range they carry before you travel.
• Department stores that stock full-bust brands. Range on the shop floor varies by branch.

The options are compared in the best places for a bra fitting in the UK.

At the fitting

1. Say what bothers you: strap pain, wires, spilling, back ache.
2. Ask to try a smaller band than you wear now.
3. Try an unlined seamed bra even if you have always worn moulded ones.
4. Try the cup above and below the one suggested.
5. Move in each bra: arms up, lean forward, sit.
6. Write down brand, style and size for anything that fits.

Beyond everyday bras

Sports bras and swimwear are sold in the same band and cup sizes by full-bust brands, and are worth buying that way. See best sports bras for large busts. If the weight of your bust causes pain despite a good fit, read back pain and the wrong bra size and speak to your GP.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the best place to get fitted with a large bust?

A retailer whose stock includes your size and the ones around it. For most people above a G cup, that means a full-bust specialist such as Bravissimo or a well-stocked independent lingerie shop.

Why was I given a different size at a specialist shop?

A general retailer can only fit you into sizes it stocks, and some fitters add inches to the band measurement. Specialists stock smaller bands and larger cups, so they can put you in the size that fits. The result is commonly a smaller band and a cup several letters higher.

Do large busts need underwired bras?

No. Wires help with separation and lift, and many people prefer them. Non-wired bras made for fuller cups, with firm bands and seamed cups, are a real alternative.