Find where it digs
| Where it hurts | Most likely cause | Try |
|---|---|---|
| Underneath the breast | Band too loose, bra tipping forward | Band down, cup up |
| Centre of the chest | Cups too small, or centre panel too tall or wide | Cup up, or a plunge style |
| At the side, on soft tissue | Cup too small or wire too narrow | Cup up, or a wider-wired style |
| All the way round, with a tight band | Band too small | Band up, cup down |
| One sharp point | Bent or broken wire | Replace the bra |
Underneath: usually a loose band
It sounds the wrong way round, but a wire jabbing into the ribs under the breast is more often caused by a band that is too big than one that is too small. A loose band rides up at the back. As it does, the front of the bra tilts down, and the lowest part of the wire is levered into your ribs.
Check side-on in a mirror. If the back of the band is higher than the front, go down a band and up a cup. See why your bra rides up at the back.
At the centre
The two wire ends meet at the centre panel. Pain there has three common causes.
- Cups too small. The breasts push the centre panel outward and the wire tips press in at an angle. Going up a cup lets the panel lie flat. See bra gore not sitting flat.
- Close-set breasts. If there is little space between your breasts, a tall or wide centre panel has nowhere to sit. A plunge bra, with a low, narrow centre, avoids the area.
- A prominent or sensitive breastbone. Some chests simply do not tolerate a firm panel. Look for a low centre, or a non-wired style.
At the side
Press on the wire near your underarm. You should feel rib beneath it. If you feel soft breast tissue, the wire is sitting on the breast and will become sore over the day.
First scoop and swoop, because the wire may simply have been put on top of tissue that belongs in the cup. If it still sits on tissue, go up a cup. If the bigger cup fits in volume but the wire is still too narrow, your breast root is wider than that style allows, and you need a different cut. See what a breast root is.
All round, with a tight band
If the whole wire presses in and the band is hard to fasten on the loosest hook, the band may be too small. Confirm it with the back-to-front test in is my bra band too tight?, then go up a band and down a cup.
When the bra itself is the problem
- Worn wire channels. If the casing has thinned or the wire has broken through, the bra is finished. A poking wire end can break the skin.
- Bent wires. Machine washing and tumble drying distort wires. A wire that has lost its curve will press at one point.
- Firm wires on a bony ribcage. Some brands use heavier wires than others. Bras with plush or padded wire channels, or flexible wires, are kinder if you have little cushioning.
See a GP about rib or breast pain that continues when you are not wearing a bra, or any lump or skin change. Those are not fit problems.
Frequently asked questions
Should underwire touch my ribs?
Yes. A wire is meant to rest on the ribcage all the way round the breast. It should sit there without pressing hard enough to hurt or leave a lasting mark.
Why does my underwire hurt under my breast?
Most often the band is too loose, so the bra tips forward and the bottom of the wire is driven into the ribs. It can also be a cup that is too small, which stops the wire sitting flat.
Can I wear a wired bra if my ribs are sensitive?
Many people can with a well-fitted bra that has cushioned wire channels. If wires are uncomfortable whatever you try, modern non-wired bras give good support, including at larger cup sizes.
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