The usual fix: keep the same band and go up one cup letter. In UK sizing the order is D, DD, E, F, FF, G, so the size above a 34DD is a 34E.

Where is it spilling?

Over the top of the cup

The cup edge cuts across the breast and tissue rises above it. Under a fitted top this shows as a line, often called quadboob. The cup is too small. Less often, the size is right and the style is too closed across the top for breasts that are full in the upper half.

At the centre

Tissue pushing over the cups in the middle, with the centre panel lifted off your chest, means too little cup volume. In a plunge bra it can also mean the cut is too low for your shape, in which case a balconette in the same size will hold you better.

At the sides, towards the armpit

If tissue sits outside the wire at the side, the cup is too small or too narrow. Do a proper scoop and swoop first. If the tissue will not stay inside the cup afterwards, go up a cup. If the next cup up fits in volume but the wire still sits on tissue at the side, you need a style with wider wires.

Out of the bottom

Breasts slipping out under the wire, especially when you raise your arms, points to the band. A loose band lets the whole bra ride up. Occasionally the cups are so small that the bra cannot sit low enough to begin with. Check the band first, with why your bra rides up at the back, then the cups.

How to find the right cup

  1. Put the bra on and scoop and swoop. This matters. Without it, tissue hides at the side and a too-small cup can pass for a good fit.
  2. Go up one cup letter on the same band.
  3. Check four things: the top edge lies flat with no ridge, the centre panel touches your breastbone, the wires sit on ribs at the side, and nothing escapes when you lean forward.
  4. If it is better but not right, go up again. Stop when all four checks pass.
  5. If the cup starts to gape before the overflow stops, the shape is the issue. Stay at the size where volume felt right and change the style.

UK cup order, so you pick the right "next size"

If you wearOne cup upTwo cups up
BCD
CDDD
DDDE
DDEF
EFFF
FFFG

The double letters are full sizes in their own right. Going from D to E skips DD. The whole sequence is in UK cup sizes in order.

Do not go up a band to get more room

The tempting fix is the next band up: 34C to 36C. It does give a bigger cup, but it also gives a longer band, and a loose band is the root of most other fit problems. If the band felt right, keep it and change only the letter.

If the band felt tight, wait until the cups are right before judging it. Cups that are too small take up band length and make a correct band feel tight. Once you are in a big enough cup, the same band often feels fine. More in is my bra band too tight?

"I can't be that cup size"

Many people stop going up because the letter sounds too big. Two things are worth knowing.

First, cup letters are relative to the band. An F on a 30 band is a modest volume, the same as a DD on a 34. The letter by itself says very little about how large a bust is.

Second, expectations about letters come from years of sizing methods that put people in cups too small for them. Measured directly, DD, E and F cups are ordinary sizes. The right cup is the one that contains you, whatever it is called.

When size is right and you still spill

Frequently asked questions

What is quadboob?

It is the informal name for the ridge that forms when the top edge of a cup cuts into the breast, so that tissue bulges above it and gives the outline of four breasts under clothing. It means the cup is too small, or too closed across the top for your shape.

How many cup sizes should I go up?

Start with one. If you still have a ridge or bulge after scooping and swooping, go up again. People who have worn a much-too-small cup for years sometimes need two or three steps before the edge lies flat.

Why do I spill out of some bras but not others in the same size?

Brands and styles are cut differently. Plunge bras and moulded cups with a low or firm upper edge are more likely to cut in. A balconette or a cup with stretch lace at the top in the same size may contain you comfortably.

I spill out at certain times of the month. What should I do?

Hormonal changes can add a cup size for a few days. Bras with stretch in the upper cup cope well with that. Some people keep one bra a cup larger for those days.

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